Introducing Banda Aceh

Indonesian cities are rarely coupled with pleasant descriptions, but Banda Aceh breaks the mould. The sleepy provincial capital is an extremely pleasant spot to spend a few days. The village-like atmosphere and dusty, unobtrusive streets make for a laid-back, easily explored town filled with cheery faces. The proud folk rarely betray the tragedy that they must have experienced during the Boxing Day tsunami; looking at the reconstructed city today it's impossible to reconcile it with the distraught images of 2004. In Banda Aceh alone, 61,000 people were killed and development outside of the city centre was reduced to a wasteland in a matter of a few hours. Today you'd hardly guess that anything had happened.

For a few years the city was awash with aid workers, who not only helped rebuild the town you'll find today but also kick-started the economy to catering to nongovernmental organisations (NGOs). Prices soared and the local economy boomed as foreign expense accounts paid for taxis, steak dinners and overpriced hotel rooms. Now that the NGOs have pretty much gone and the reconstruction is complete, the miniboom is over. However, Aceh has greater control over its resources, in particular oil, so the town is relatively affluent and the streets, the homes and especially the mosques are well maintained and looked after.

Banda Aceh is a fiercely religious city and the ornate mosques are at the centre of daily life. In this devoutly Muslim city, religion and respect are everything. The hassles are few and the people are easy going and extremely hospitable to visitors.  

Get in

Foreigners no longer require a travel permit (Surat Jalan) to enter Aceh, but an Indonesian visa is required. Since 6 June 2010, it is possible to get a 30 day Visa-on-Arrival at Banda Aceh Airport. The Embassy in KL can sometimes process the visa in the same day if you complete all the paperwork before noon, though officially this only applies to Malaysian residents.

By Plane
Sultan Iskandar Muda Airport, (IATA: BTJ, ICAO: WITT) is named after the twelfth sultan of Aceh, Iskandar Muda.

Airlines fly daily between Banda Aceh and either Medan, a 1 hr trip, or Jakarta, a 2 hr 40 minute trip.

• AirAsia, Kuala Lumpur. [1], flights Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun
• Firefly, Penang, [2] , Malaysia's community airline now flies from Penang to Banda Aceh every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
• Garuda Indonesia, Jakarta-Soekarno-Hatta, Medan, 3 daily flights from Jakarta and two daily flights from Medan. The Jakarta-Banda Aceh direct flight on Garuda takes 2 hr 40 mins on a Boeing 737, although it is often changed to stopover at Medan without warning. Seasonal to Jeddah in Saudi Arabia during the Hajj season.
• Lion Air, Jakarta-Soekarno-Hatta, Medan. They have two daily flights from Jakarta and one from Medan.
• SMAC, Blang Pidie, Meulaboh, Simelue, Takengon, Tapaktuan. Flies daily from Medan to Nias Island and Simeulue Island.
• Sriwijaya Air, Medan
• Susi Air, Meulaboh 

By rental van

There are rental minibus available from Medan to major cities in Aceh.

Visa

Visa formalities at this airport are similar to those of other Indonesian immigration gateways. Visa On Arrival (VOA) service is available at Sultan Iskandar Muda Airport. 

Airport Bus

A bus provides a service from Banda Aсeh to the airport, and from the airport to Banda Aceh. Operating hours are 10/11AM-2:30PM, price to the city is Rp 15,000/person.

The bus departing from the airport to Banda Aсeh leaves a few minutes after airplanes land. So departure time depends on landing time, more or less. Thus, it's advised to hurry to catch the bus. It is on your left when you leave the airport building (taxi drivers will tell you there is no airport bus, just keep on walking because the bus is there).

Please note that this bus goes to Banda Aceh City Centre; it does not go to the Bus Station or Ulee-Lhue Harbour. If you want to go to the Bus Station or Ulee-Lhue Harbour, take a becak after being dropped off in the City Centre by the airport bus.

By Boat

The closest big (international) ferry terminal is Belawan Port, close to Medan. It receives vessels originating from Batam, Indonesia (a common route when coming from Singapore). The ferry from Penang is no longer operating. From Ulhee-lhee, the port of Banda Aceh you can go to Pulau Weh and to Pulau Aceh.

Get Around 

The main methods of getting around are becak (motorbike taxis) and labi-labi (public minibus). Due to the sudden influx of money post-tsunami, locals have gotten used to overcharging, but now stabilisation has returned. Example becak fares are: Airport - Grand Mosque: Rp 40,000; Bus Terminal - Grand Mosque: Rp 8,000; Grand Mosque - Penayong: Rp 5,000. Inside the city, generally Rp 10,000 should do it.  

See

• Masjid Raya Baiturrahman/Grand Mosque, (Muslim dresscode). Baiturrahman is a great mosque located at the heart of Banda Aceh, The mosque has five black coloured domes and white four minarets. The mosque stands upon an elegantly green landscape. The white washed walls and minerals and charcoal blacks domes of the Grand Mosque are the most famous landmark in Aceh. The Mosque was built in 12 Century and caught fire several time including during a Dutch attack upon Kutaraja (Banda Aceh) in 1873. A replacement mosque was built by the Dutch military government and was completed in 1883. The Mosque is extraordinary in architecture and ornamentation. It has five onion shaped domes, two tall minarets, wide white walls and decoratively ornamented pillars.

• Cut Nya Dien House. Cut Nya Dien was an Indonesian woman revolutionist from Aceh. The house is a replica of the heroine Cut Nyak Dhien House, from the Aceh War. The colonial forces burned down the house but a replica was built later. This house in Lam Pisang, about 6 km from Banda Aceh and is now is a museum. The house is in Lampisang Village, Lhok Nga subdistrict, Greater Aceh district. Although Lhok Nga was the area worst hit by tsunami, the Tjut Nyak Dhien House survived. The daughter of a chieftain, Tjut Nyak Dhien joined the fight against the Dutch invaders in 1875. Her first husband fell in battle, and she remarried. When her second husband also died fighting, she continued the struggle with her children. After six years in the jungle, she was captured by the Dutch and exiled to West Java where she passed away in 1906. Tjut Nyak Dhien is recognised as one of the National Warriors of Indonesia. 

• Gunongan and Taman Putroe Phang. Gunongan had erected by Sultan Iskandar Muda (1607 - 1636) as a private playground and bathing place for this wife Putro Phang (From Malaysia). This whimsical architectural fantasy had access to the sultan's palace through the traditional 'Pintu Aceh', used by royalty only. This building likely functioned as an important recreational peace located in the Taman Sari Park for the Queen and other royal family members to climb. It is quite enjoyable to visit this place during the late afternoon or sunset.

• Graveyard in Bitay Village. In Bitay the grave of a saint, Teungku di Bitay, may still be seen. The tomb of Tuan di Bitay, who taught the Achehnese among other things the art of casting cannon, and the mosque which stands beside the grave are revered as sacred up to the present day. * Aceh and Turkey had a close relationship in times past. Many technicians and weapons from the Turkish fleet came and settled in Aceh. Historical remains of this time include a mosque and a monument and headstone Turkish people in the village Bitai (~ 3 km from Banda Aceh).

• The Museum Aceh. The museum is situated in Sultan Alaidin Mahmud Syah St. The museum exhibits ceramics, weapons and many cultural artifacts such as clothing, jewellery, calligraphy, Islamic ornamenation, kitchen equipment and many other items. A most interesting item is a big bell called “Lonceng Cakra Donya”, a gift from China Grand-Duke (Ming Emperor, in the 15th century) for Sultan Aceh that was delivered by a Chinese Moslem, Admiral Cheng Ho in 1414, an inscription on the bell reads; “Sing Fang Niat Toeng Juut Kat”. In this complex there is also ‘Rumah Aceh’ house that was built by Dutch Governor Van Swart in 1941 in a style typical of classic Aceh’s house architecture. In the western of Museum or northern of Aceh House of Custom there is graveyard complex holding the remains of Aceh Sultans.

• Indonesian Airline Monument (Seulawah-Indonesian First Airplane). The Monument was erected to commemorate the heroic contribution of the Acehnese to the emergence of the Republic of Indonesia. When Indonesia became independent in 1945 the Dutch intended to reoccupy the country. In the ensuing struggle in 1949 much area had fallen to the Dutch, the Republic of Indonesia was badly in need of an airplane to avoid the blockade of the enemy. Soekarno, Indonesian president at that time, urgently asked the Acehnese to donate money for an airplane. A Douglas DC-3 was purchased shortly afterwards, and paid for with the donation. This very early plane was the precursor of Garuda Indonesia fleet.

• Kerkhof (Dutch military graveyards of Banda Aceh), Teuku Umar St (the entrance gate is in front of the south eastern corner of Blang Padang). Kerkhoff or War Memorial Cemetery or known by local peoples as Peucut Kerkhoff, 2,000 Dutch soldiers who died in an Aceh War were buried in this graveyards. On the walls of the Kerkhoff entrance gate you may see the names list of the persons buried including details of where and when they died.

• Ulee Lheue-Banda Aceh (Tsunami Ground Zero). Ulee Lheue is a shore line facing the Malacca straits; when the tsunami hit Banda Aceh on 26 December, 2004, the beach line and the village nearby were severely damaged and submerged by a 10 m high wave. Now the local government has built a new seaport at Ulee Lheue, and if you have plans to visit Sabang and Weh island, you can take a Ro-Ro ferry or speed boat from Ulee Lheue. Ulee Lheue beach has still kept its enchanting beauty, and almost every day people come to this place to enjoy the blue horizon of sky and sea, to see a beautiful sunset in the evening, or to enjoy the beach at night on the weekend.

Tsunami Tour

It is possible to go on a "Tsunami Tour" as there are many boats still inland and other monuments devoted to the devastating day in 2004.

• Fisherman boat on an inhabitant house, Desa Lampulo, Kota Alam. 59 people were reportedly saved by boarding this small boat and riding it to safety. Very dramatic image indeed. free. 
• Floating Electric Generator Ship, Kampung Bunge Blangcut, Jayabaru. A ship was carried 5 km inland during the tsunami. You can get a nice overview of the city from the top of the ship. 
• Tsunami Monument & Garden. Located beside the electric generator ship.
• Apung 1 ship, a 2,600 ton vessel that was swept 2 km inland. Now it is a tourist attraction.

 Do

• Mountain Biking Cycling Hiking, [3]. Cycle around the mountains, rice fields and beaches near Banda Aceh. Hike and Bike tours and mountain bikes available from Rp 80,000.  
• Banda Aceh city highlights tour on a Bicycle, [4]. A bike is a great way to explore both the long history of Banda Aceh as well as the impact of the 2004 Tsunami. Bicycles, maps and route descriptions are available at Discover Aceh.   
• Island dropping,  [5]. open 9AM-5PM. The uninhabited island of Pulau Kreusik has a splendid, mosquito free white beach and is located about 1 hour from Banda Aceh. The island has safe swimming. You can either make a day trip to the island or stay overnight. around Rp 800,000 pp.  
• Discover Aceh. There are some nice diving spots around Banda Aceh such as Pulau Tuan, Pulau Bunta, Lhok Mata Ie, Tengkorak Island and around Pulo Aceh with underwater fish and corals. If you are lucky you will see Manta rays. The price includes the boat from Banda Aceh. Certified divemasters will accompany you when diving. €35 per pax per dive, minimum 4 pax.